Mycelium has grown in popularity over the past two years. Using the thread-like hyphae of fungus allows people to create three dimensional forms from the material, as well as leather alternatives. Sebastian Cox has now even begun incorporating fungus into his furniture, by working with biomaterials designer Ninela Ivanova. The fungus he specifically works with is Fomes fomentarius, or hoof fungus, a species with good wood-penetrating properties. He inoculates wood chips with the mycelium, but many others use this type of fungus’ fruiting bodies, as it has a leather-like quality. This has been happening for centuries around the world, especially in areas such as Transylvania. But there is now a resurgence of using these fungus in modern furniture and clothing.

Furniture designer Mari Koppanen has used hoof fungus to upholster a rotund stool and matching bench, using historical techniques from parts of central Romania. The Fomes range is named after Fomes fomentarius, in which it is made from. While its wooden legs are made from the same birch trees on which the mushroom grows. Sheets of amadou, a suede-like material derived from the fruit of the fungus, make up the furniture. This material requires no dangerous processing, and is fully biodegradable, cruelty-free and natural. To utilise the mushroom Koppanen learnt how to work with amadou and spent a week with some of the families who have been practising the craft in the eastern Transylvanian village of Corund since the 19th century. The process starts by using a sharp sickle to peel away the hard, crusty outer layer of the fungus. Inside is spongey, and can be trimmed into shape and stretched. Finally it is carefully flattened by hand and left to dry. Koppanen has also used amadou in a range of contemporary design pieces, including bags and vests.

Craftsmen have been using Fomes fomentarius to create fashion alpine-style hats and other accessories since the 1840s. Montreal-based EDEN Power Corp have now released hats made of mushrooms, bringing this tradition into the modern day. Their “Mycelium Research & Development” collection features the Amadou Mushroom Hats. These were handmade by local artisans in Corund, Transylvania with traditional methods. Each piece is custom-made from a single mushroom that is boiled and felted into a tulip shape. For each hat purchased, EDEN Power Corp will plant 20 trees in partnership with Eden Reforestation Projects to save the forests.